Cabinets

Kitchen makeovers remain popular as homeowners continue to invest to create a warm, stylish, comfortable, and efficient heart of the home. In addition to improved looks and functionality, kitchen remodels also hold reasonable resale value. Though looks are important, the driving remodeling force is functionality. Before you get your kitchen makeover or new home done you need to have a budget set for your kitchen. You’ll need to make some choices on where to save and where to splurge. A $500 range or a $10,000 one? A $100 sink or one that’s $3,500? A $4 polished brass knob or a $98 crystal model? What’s important to you? As for budget breakdown you can expect cabinetry and hardware to run about 30% of your investment, appliances and ventilation can be 20%, countertops typically run 15%, and installation is about 15% of the total project cost. Set aside 10%-20% of your budget for the unexpected.

CABINET LINES
Economy Package ($5000-$5900)
Built for the homeowner on a budget. No special thrills or gadgets. All base cabinets will include a drawer and two shelves plus one cabinet with 3 or 4 drawers. Solid wood drawer fronts. Option of going with a lazy susan, if space allows. All uppers will be 30” and include two shelves. Widths change in 3” increments, starting at 9” and going on up to 36.” You have the option of a flat panel door or shaker style door in a natural finish. Available in only five woods. Laminate tops included (High Def. tops extra). Just realize you can still make some modifications and keep your budget at a minimum.
economy

10×12 L Shape Kitchen
Oak $5000
Alder $5400
Hickory$5700
Maple $5800
Cherry $5900
*Installation an extra $600. Allow for 2-3 weeks.

Deluxe Package ($7500-$10,000)
For more discriminating tastes and deeper pockets. Get any style door in either a stained or natural finish. Upper and lower widths custom fit for looks and organization. Upper heights up to 36”. Crown molding, garbage pullout, sprice rack and full extension drawer slides are additional upgrades from the economy package, along with granite countertops. Have the option of about 80 colors to choose from. There are more colors to choose from but typically the granites with “movement” will be more money. Besides, the more granite’s you look at the more confused you will get. Also includes a stainless steel sink, undermount cutout, backsplash and countertop installation.

10×12 L Shaped Kitchen
Oak $7500
Alder $7900
Hickory $8200
Cherry/Maple $8400
*Installation an extra $800 minimum. Allow for 3-4 weeks.

The Well-Built Cabinet ($8500-$15,000)
Where a precise fit, more configuration options, and fine detailing matter more than a price tag. All our cabinetry is beautifully crafted using only the finest raw materials. Top quality kitchen cabinets are made like good furniture. Built to any width or height you want and with any finish, hardware, or wood species that catches your eye. Furniture-grade plywood is used for all the carcasses. Side panels are made to match your door style. Drawers/pullouts are made of ¾ clear pine and joints are dovetailed at all corners. All plywood shelves are at least 3/4 inch thick. Choose from storage devices to decorative moldings/appliqués to specialty units like a wine rack. The options are limitless.
luxury
10×12 L Shaped Kitchen (priced w/ granite tops, full ext. hardware, dovetailed drawers, raised panel doors and side panels, crown molding and a custom made island. Pullouts, decorative moldings/appliqués, specialty units and other wood species/countertops will be extra).

Oak
Alder
Hickory
Cherry/Maple
Exotic Woods
*Installation an extra $1000 minimum. Allow for 4-8 weeks.

Custom Looks

Appliance Garage- Nice area to stow away the coffee maker or toaster. Nice for a clean clutter free countertop. The only disadvantage is that it takes away countertop space. Not recommended for small kitchens.
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Basket Storage- In keeping with a more rustic, country look, pull-out wicker baskets great for storing fruit, bread, or vegetables.

Cutting Board- Not a bad idea to have above a pullout garbage.
Decorative Corner Post/Appliqués- Cabinet corners don’t have to be plain, straight edges.

Decorative Molding- Popular in traditional and old-world kitchens.

Distressing- Give new cabinets an instant vintage charm with a distressed treatment that artificially ages and wears the wood.

Garbage Pullouts-Come as side by side containers or you can get a quad recycling center. Option of having pullout with the door (not recommended) or with a swinging door.
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Microwave Cabinet- Great place to stow away that clumsy microwave and keep your countertop clutter free. Another option would be above the stove. Need a microwave with proper ventilation.
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Open Shelves-A cabinet without doors is a perfect way to display dishware or cookbooks.
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Spice pull outs- Why frustrate yourself pulling out every spice on the shelves when you can have everything neatly organized with these full extension pullouts. Can be made for both upper and lower cabinets.

Pullout Drawers-Beats having to dig all the way to the back of the shelf to find out you already ate it. Way more convenient then shelving. Simply pull out and have everything at your disposal.
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Stain/Paint- Add warmth, color, and protection without hiding the grain of solid wood cabinets by using stain. Stains are available in light to very dark finishes.

Wine Storage/plate racks- Open cubbies offer a convenient place to stow bottles and fancy china.
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Work Station-A kitchen desk provides a space to read recipes or pay the bills.
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DOOR STYLES
Arched/Cathedral Doors- Best suited for kitchens with tall ceilings since they draw the eye upward, just as the arches and peaks did of the Gothic Cathedrals that they are fashioned after. This style works well in a cottage or country kitchen, and in kitchens with lots of detailed woodwork and molding.

Beadboard Panel-A stile-and-rail frame surrounds a center beadboard panel. Less formal than raised or flat panel. Works well in country and cottage-style kitchens.

Glass Panel Doors- Cabinet doors with glass fronts add an airy feel to the kitchen by breaking up the mass of wood. This style lets you add a decorative personal touch. Nice for displaying dinnerware and fancy china.

Mission Doors- Mission style doors are known for their simple, clean, and elegant beauty that is set off by the use of a squared flat panel. Mission doors are traditionally of quartersawn oak. Not much diffrent than Shaker style doors so to distinguish between the two are mission style doors incorporate a midrail down the middle of the door.

Raised Panel Doors- A frame surrounds a panel with sloped edges and a raised center. Tons of different profiles to choose from. Our panels aren’t glued or fastened into the grooves but siliconed, which allows them to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity without cracking or pushing the frame apart. It also stops the door panel from rattling or sounding hollow. Something not a lot of places do with their doors. Tiny pads are placed in the grooves to keep the panels centered.

Shaker Doors- A recessed panel in a cabinet door leads to a clean-line look, while adding more dimension than a slab door. Shaker style doors are popular in contemporary kitchens.

Slab Doors- Made up of multiple glued up boards. No rails. Two cleats are added to the back to prevent the door from warping. Often times where the boards are glued up, a v groove is cut. Simple but built to withstand the ages. Hardware is usually a no-no when it comes to slab doors. Instead, think about opting for a finger pull routed on the backs of your doors. This kind can be used in traditional or rustic kitchens.

Types of Wood
Alder
Alder, part of the birch family, is a softer hardwood from the Pacific Northwest. Consistent color, stability, and uniform acceptance of stains and finishes are some of the characteristics that have made Western Alder a preferred wood for furniture. Ranking second only to oak as the most commonly used wood, alder offers the look of many fine hardwoods at a value price.
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Ash
Ash, in its natural state, contains all the rustic features that are characteristic of this species. You can expect colors from bright tan to tannish brown with mineral, sound knots, and a full assortment of grain and texture that make this wood so beautiful. This wood offers great potential for creative design.

Birch
Birch is a stiff, close-grained hardwood that grows primarily in northeast U.S. and Canada. A heavy wood, it has a high shock resistance. Birch is very light in color (predominantly a light yellow) and takes any stain well.

Cherry
Cherry is a strong but moderately hardwood. It is rich in color with a fine satin texture. The texture is uniformed and frequently wavy, with distinctive gum veins and pockets. The heartwood can range from a light to dark reddish-brown. Sapwood can be a light pale brown with light pinkish tones. American Cherry is extremely light-sensitive, meaning the color usually darkens over a short period of time when exposed to light.

Hickory
Hickory is the hardest of the indigenous wood species. It is twice as hard as oak. Even Babe Ruth and all 714 career HR’s loved hickory. He was the only slugger that was able to swing this lumber. Hickory is not a single wood species. Hickory is a mixture of pignut, shagbark, pecan and bitternut hickory. Hickory wood has an eye-catching appeal because of its dramatic appearance in the grain, dark brown strips and the sapwood is often white with pinkish tones. Hickory’s high density and resilient surface will stand up to centuries of wear.
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Maple
Maple is notably resistant to abrasive wear; and for this reason, it is the hardwood flooring of choice for such high-traffic/hard-use locations as bowling alleys, basketball courts, and other sports facilities. The heartwood ranges from creamy white to light reddish-brown while the sapwood is a lovely creamy white. This wood has a closed, subdued grain and a uniform texture, with medium figuring. The figuring is variously described as quilted, curly, “bird’s-eye,” and “fiddleback.” During the grading process, interestingly figured boards are often culled from the group and sold at a premium. Staining can be difficult, but not impossible.
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Knotty Pine
Knotty Pine is typically selected for its rustic appearance. It is pale tan with hues of red and peach and has a fine, open-grained texture. Knots are tight and close together. The species ambers (yellows) with time.

Poplar
Poplar is light in color, but contains dramatic color variation and streaking. Poplar is smooth, but exhibits more grain texture than woods like Maple. Paint grade poplar is best suited for paint finishes.

Red Oak
There are more than 200 subspecies of Red Oak in North America. There is a great variation in color and grain depending on the origin of the wood and differences in growing seasons. Red Oak heartwood and sapwood are similar in appearance, which is light-colored with a reddish tone. The grain of red oak is more open and somewhat coarser than white oak. Quarter-sawn Oak the wood of choice for high end furniture or a classic arts and crafts kitchen.
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Walnut
Prized in North America for high-end cabinetry and furniture, walnut provides strength, hardness, and durability without excessive weight. It has excellent woodworking qualities and takes finishes well. When fresh cut, the sapwood of walnut is nearly white and the heartwood is a beautiful warm brown. The mills use a steaming process that “caramelizes” the sugars in the sapwood and blends the sapwood to nearly the brown color of the heartwood. Most woods darken with age. Walnut is the exception and becomes lighter in color with age.

White Oak
White Oak is slightly harder than red oak and also is more durable. It has a high shock resistance and resists wear. Its heartwood is light brown and some boards may have a pinkish tint or slightly grayish cast. Its sapwood is white to creamy.

A LITTLE ABOUT OUR CABINETS

With the exception of drawers and a toe kick, upper and lower cabinets share the same basic elements. The carcass or cabinet box supports the weight of the countertop, shelving and any pullouts or drawer slides. Unlike all the major cabinet lines you see at your big box stores that use 1/2″ material, all our major cabinet components (tops, bottoms, and sides) are made from 3/4″ thick material. A ¼” may not sound like a lot but I feel like I have 10 black belts when I karate chop ½” material up. When material thinner than 3/4″ is used, the more likely the cabinet is going to bend or warp, especially with granite tops. It’s also more difficult to fasten with screws, nails or staples without splitting. They’re cheap and fall apart before they even get in the home. The face frame is planted on the front of cabinet box. The frames wooden stiles and rails help stiffen the carcass and provide a mount for hinges. Most stiles are 1 ½” with 2 ¼” top rails for the uppers and 3” mid rails for cabinets over 2’. Options are available if you’re looking for more robust cabinetry but does cost extra (ex: Going with 3” stiles/rails on your doors vs. the standard 2 ¼). Your doors and drawers are then mounted with a 3/8” overlay. Inset doors and drawers (where the door and drawer fronts fit inside their openings and are flush with the face frame) are also a available options, however, they are not recommended because of the constant upkeep (during the seasons wood will shrink and expand ever so slightly) and the cost. Concealed European hinges are not only used for their strength but are also adjustable so that doors can align with the surrounding face-frame. We use the quietest slides that run on nylon bearings for all our cabinets. They’re a good slide that can carry loads of at least 100 pounds. Full extension slides, although more expensive, do glide a little easier but are slightly louder. It’s also a plus to reach all the way to the back of the drawer. The soft close feature for both doors(Blum) and drawers(Hettich) are also available options. Very nice feature to have from having the kids slamming the drawers or your husband leaving the doors half open.

Standard Measurements
1. Distance between countertop and upper cabinets: 18 inches
2. Upper cabinet depth: 12 inches (however, we do like to go at least 3” further on corner cabinets and any cabinet that ends a run to add more depth)
3. Lower cabinet depth: 24 inches
4. Countertop overhang: 1 inch
5. Countertop height: 36 inches. 30” for table/work area and 42” for bar stools.
6. Kickspace: 3 ½ inches high, 3 inches deep

Choosing cabinets is time consuming, but designing an entire kitchen is downright difficult. The easier way is to find and talk to one of our staff. We have the experience to forsee and resolve any fit or installation problems, before your cabinets are even delivered. Details make the difference.

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